This morning I was thinking about the Bunka sleeve draft that I wanted to try out, and I was wishing I had the book: http://www.amazon.com/Bunka-Fashion-Garment-Design-Textbook/dp/B004XYLRVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1453500755&sr=1-1&keywords=bunka+fashion+college . I looked the sleeve up on the internet and found various instructions, and read the instructions in my Japanese sewing magazines (looked at the illustrations, rather, since I don’t read much Japanese). Eventually I figured it out:
I’m interested to try it out on my blouse pattern because I had moved the shoulder seam forward and this draft seems to account for that. This will let me match the top notch to the shoulder seam and will let the sleeve seam match the side seam again.
I finally made my TNT blouse pattern into a sloper of sorts by cutting it out of poster board and trimming off the seam allowances. Now I can use them to try some Japanese sewing patterns I have saved. The photo below shows how the sloper (the red portion) is used as the base for the new pattern. You trace out your sloper and make the changes and additions as shown in the pattern graphic.
Now that that is all drafted, I can start sewing a new top for M. I cut out the Jungle Print top and cut two sets of front and back yoke pieces. One will be the lining and one will be the right side. It is a large print, and the color scheme of each set was so different that I took pictures of them and sent them to M so she could decide which she liked best.
The one on the left has more animal print and lots of black and white, and the one on the right has more teal (which she likes). She chose the one on the left, so now I am going to go thread the machine and get started.