Now that I have tried out Sure-Fit Designs pattern drafting system, I have decided that I like it a lot and that it really works well. It makes it very easy to draft up a sloper to use to fit commercial patterns and to draft patterns for yourself or others that fit well. When I was in college, I used to go to a nearby bookstore and buy the Dressmaking Magazine copies with some of my very meager spending money. I still have all the old copies of this Japanese magazine. I recently found out that there are copies of recent Japanese pattern drafting and sewing magazines on ISSUU, and I realized that I could use my SFD sloper to produce some of those fashions. The magazines use different slopers including the Bunka sloper which seemed to be really interesting, so this morning I tried drafting that one. It is very scientific and involves calculations and angle measurements which made it really different from the effortless and easy SFD method.
My Dressmaking magazines
Below is my finished Bunka sloper. I used my real shoulder length instead of the calculated one, and used the SFD method of locating the bust point, but otherwise followed the Bunka method. One thing that helped a lot was to do all the calculating ahead of time so that the results were already noted down when I started drafting.
I compared the Bunka sloper to my SFD sloper (which has seam allowances added and a lowered neckline) and they were very similar.
I got a little carried away printing off copies of Japanese designs I want to draft so I made up a new binder to hold them and other sewing info.
It’s like playing grown-up paper dolls with all the cutting and taping, but this time the clothes are for me.
Last weekend I was in San Jose with my husband so we stopped in at Kinokuniya. I thought I had seen the Bunka textbooks there and wanted to get one, but alas, it turns out that I saw them at the LA branch. I did find these excellent magazines, though, and the Pattern Magic book which has a short section on the Bunka sloper drafting technique.