Every time I have made a shirt or blouse for myself, something was off with the front width across the upper chest. I could never figure out how to fix it until I tried out the Sure-fit Designs system. I made a bodice blueprint and used it to alter my favorite blouse pattern. I ended up with the best fitting shoulders and front I have ever produced. So hurray for Sure-Fit, totally worth the money. After this success, I tried several other adjustments, one for a forward shoulder and one rolling the sleeve forward a bit. That seems to have worked, too, and then I tried changing the darts to a princess seam, also very nice. I spent the whole week my husband was away on a business trip playing with patterns trying different necklines and sleeves and hems. Time to stop playing with paper and start sewing.
My first try was a heavy chambray or very light-weight denim. This one has regular darts which are in the perfect position thanks to Sure-Fit, though they are now hidden by the pockets. All the seams were topstitched, and the sleeve cap seam is flat felled. The collar turned out to be about 1″ too short around the neckline, and since this version of the front does not have any extension for lapels, the collar and lapels look a little skimpy. This was probably due to my lowering the neckline a bit and forgetting to enlarge the collar pattern. Oh well, still wearable, and that’s why we make muslins.
Having decided that the neckline could be lowered a bit more, I made yet another front pattern and adjusted the collar and stand patterns to fit. This next blouse will have 3/4-length sleeves and a collar and stand. Here it is waiting for attention: